Lucca
Travel literature likes to talk up Tuscany's hill towns, but little Lucca, which lies in the valley of the Apuan Alps, lives up to the hype. A compact city center of a few manageable sites, Lucca's most family-friendly feature is that it is almost entirely closed off to cars. Bicycles — albeit older, single-speed types — rule the roads here, and an umbrella stroller wouldn't be out of place, either.
Head to the tourist kiosk in Piazzale Verdi, where, at €2.50 per bike per hour, you can rent bikes for the entire family — bicycles equipped with baby seats are also available at no extra charge. With your transportation set, pedal from one piazza to the next. Or, take a spin on top of Le Mura, the city's medieval fortifications that do double-duty as Lucca's public parks and passegiata paths.
Staying overnight, when the city has been drained of its tour bus crowds, is the best way to do Lucca with kids. Hotel Ilaria, located along a canal near the Botanical Gardens, has wi-fi, satellite tv, and babysitting services, as well as free bikes to use during your stay.
Hotel Ilaria, suites from €180 (or $245)
http://www.hotelilaria.com
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